1/47
Lot #2790

Cartier must de Cartier Tank Vermeil His and Hers Time-capsule Set

How do I bid? Start here

Introduction

Introduced in the early 1980s following the success of Cartier’s collaboration with Dupont on a collection of co-branded lighters that ended up securing Cartier’s financial future, the Tank Must de Cartier collection is a diffusion line that leveraged the Cartier Tank’s iconic silhouette and Cartier’s legendary branding in a more affordable package so as to offer customers the same look as before but at a more palatable price tag. While the Tank Louis which the Tank Must is based on is made of 18kt yellow gold, the Tank Must collection primarily uses a sterling silver case that is then electroplated in 18kt yellow gold, resulting in a far more economical watch without sacrificing aesthetics. Additionally, the Tank Must collection often featured quartz movements, but on rare occasions it was powered by a manual-wind Cartier movement, like both of our matching examples here. Additionally, to play on its more affordable price tag, Cartier would experiment with different dial designs and finishes, with the two examples here boasting matching burgundy dials with matching golden hands and a distinct lack of inscriptions other than Cartier’s own branding and logo.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

V 9

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Boxes, Guarantees, Instructions

Est. value range

$4,000 – $6,000

The Details

Brand

Cartier

Dimensions

30mm x 23mm; 27mm x 20mm

Model

Tank Must de Cartier

Movement

Manual-wind

Reference

N/A

Bracelet

Leather straps

Year

1981

Condition

Near-Mint

Material

18kt yellow gold-plated Sterling silver

Included

Watch x 2, box x 2, papers x 2 and booklets x 2

Dial Color

Burgundy

THE DIALS
THE DIALS

Both offered with dark red burgundy dials, these Tank Must de Cartier's lack any of Cartier's better-known dial details as per the Must collection's aesthetic.

THE CONSTRUCTIONS
THE CONSTRUCTIONS

Made of 18kt yellow gold-plated sterling silver, the Must de Cartier collection was significantly more affordable than its fully-fledged 18kt yellow gold siblings while still offering the same design and aesthetics on the wrist.

THE FULL SETS
THE FULL SETS

Offered with everything as they were originally sold back in 1981, these two examples tell their full story from the original Cartier AD to your wrist.

Condition

Watches are in near-mint vintage condition. Very minor signs of handling visible on the watch surfaces. There is oxidation visible on the casebooks and around the edges of the case sides and crowns as seen in the images. Burgundy colored dials are eye-clean and do not exhibit any surface damage. The hands on the smaller watch have minor signs of aging as seen in the images.

Please Note: Due to CITES considerations, if the watch is to be shipped outside of the USA, the exotic skin strap will have to be removed.

timing readout for the ladies is + 16.3 s/d. mens is +12.8 s/d

Our Perspective

How rare of an opportunity to be able to acquire a matching his and hers set of vintage Cartier Tanks in near-pristine condition? Bought on the same day in 1981, this lover's set was destined to be kept together and never split up. Sold at the Costa Mesa (California) boutique, we love the addition of the Cartier NY stock numbers hand stamped on the casebooks.

Eric Ku

Co-founder