Review: MS Spitsbergen

What is the line? Hurtigruten Expeditions

Name of ship? MS Spitsbergen

Passenger occupancy? 220

Itinerary? West Africa Archipelago

Start out with the big picture—what is this cruise line known for?

Billing itself as the world’s oldest cruise line, the Oslo-based company was established in 1893, ferrying freight, mail, and passengers to communities along the rugged and remote Norwegian coast. Today, Hurtigruten remains best known for its original itinerary (the 34-port Norwegian Coastal Express) which has continued, with some modifications, for more than a century. In 2022 the line began sailing to the Galapagos, and in 2023 it launched its West Africa itineraries, a series of five consecutive 12-day cruises offered from October through December that sail roundtrip from Dakar, Senegal, to the islands of Cape Verde; Guinea-Bissau’s Bissagos Islands; and The Gambia. At time of writing, Hurtigruten is the only line with a ship based in Dakar, and the only international cruise line operating expedition cruises along the West African coast.

Tell us about the ship in general:

Hurtigruten bills itself as a premium rather than a luxury line, which means that its ships aren’t over-the-top plush–expedition cruising is, after all, about the destinations, not the ship’s bells and whistles. That said, MS Spitsbergen is modern and comfortable, and with a capacity of just 220 passengers, offers a relatively intimate cruise experience. It has eight decks (cabins are on three of them); one restaurant; a two-story bar and lounge; a small sauna and gym, as well as a gift shop and modest library. There’s no spa nor casino.

It should be noted that Spitsbergen was designed for cold, Northern climates; it spends most of the year sailing the British Isles and up the Norwegian coast to Svalbard. So it lacks some of the amenities you’d want on a warm-weather cruise. There’s no pool, only a pair of two-person hot tubs at the ship’s aft. Only deck 7 and 8 are outside, and while deck 8 has more space to bask on lounge chairs, there’s no shade and you’ll need to venture to the Explorer bar on deck 5 for refreshments. MS Spitsbergen will meet your needs, but North American cruisers should expect less variety and fewer choices across the board.

Who’s onboard?

Our sailing (of just 58 passengers) comprised a combination of 55+ European couples, with a few American and Canadian passengers of the same age. Most of the European passengers were repeat cruisers with the line. There was also a handful of solo cruisers (depending on capacity, some smaller cabins are sold to solos with no single supplement). Hurtigruten discourages children under 12 on their West Africa sailings.

Describe the cabins:

Spitsbergen’s 110 staterooms are sold in six categories, ranging from Polar Insides to six Expedition Suites, which are the only cabins with (standing room-only) balconies; all others have picture windows. Inside cabins are surprisingly spacious (some as big as outsides), except for those on deck 4, which have twin beds, one of which pulls down from the wall. Depending on occupancy, these may be sold as solo cabins, with no single supplement. Three mini-suites on deck 4 have a window alcove with a pull-out bed, each sleeping three adults or two adults and two children. There is one wheelchair-accessible cabin.

Decor is “Scandi style” with blonde woods, cream walls, and blue accents—a sea, sand, and sky palette. Furniture is minimal (just a chair and ottoman) and photography of the ship's destinations serves as the wall art. Bathrooms with walk-in showers are modern, and the heated floor is a nice post-shower treat, even on a warm-weather sailing. Beds, either queen-size or twins, are raised high enough to offer ample space for suitcase storage, and there’s plenty of closet and drawer space. Each stateroom has a kettle, plus coffee and tea service; suites and mini suites have coffee makers. Every guest is given a complimentary waterproof backpack, a water bottle, and a hygiene kit with face masks and hand sanitizer.

Tell us about the crew:

MS Spitsbergen’s expedition, science, and activity team members were knowledgeable and kind. On our ship, the team included an ornithologist, marine scientist, and cetacean researcher. Among the ship's 85 crew members, 17 nationalities are represented. A Togolese chef prepared delicious West African options at lunch and dinner.

What food and drink options are available on board?

Aune is MS Spitsbergen’s only restaurant, serving buffet-style breakfast, lunch, and dinner. It features live cooking stations—hot eggs at breakfast, pasta and carved meat at dinner—and is open for only 90 minutes each meal, so late-sleepers and those who like leisurely dining may feel rushed. On West African sailings, a local chef prepares regional dishes (my personal favorite was the jollof rice from Nigeria) for lunch and dinner. Wine, beer, and soft drinks are complimentary with meals, but charged at all other times.

There’s no room service, but guests may call Aune to order from a takeaway menu of breakfast sandwiches. At dinnertime, a selection of to-go burgers is available, but you have to order and pick up in person at Aune, and they may not be consumed in the dining room.

The Explorer Bar offers a lighter continental breakfast from 6:30 until breakfast starts at 7:30 a.m.; cookies, coffee, and tea are available all day; and the cake of the day appears at 3 p.m. There’s a water bottle refill station in the bar, the gym, and on select decks.

Is there a spa on board and is it worth visiting?

The ship does not have a spa or salon.

Activities and entertainment:

You won’t find a casino, spa, or nightly Broadway-style shows on this expedition ship. However, unique to Hurtigruten’s vessels are interactive onboard science centers, complete with microscopes and other scientific equipment. They’re staffed by a team which, on our voyage, included an ornithologist, marine scientist, and cetacean researcher, who offer various activities during the day. Passengers can also participate in Citizen Science programs, such as whale, wildlife, and cloud watching.

Other onboard diversions include stretching class; water bottle painting and art class; and photography tutorials. Sea days may include nautical knotting class and Q+A sessions with the ship’s officers. A Gambian dance and drumming troupe performs an onboard show during the ship’s extended port call in Banjul. All lectures, as well as the evening port briefing are offered with live interpretation in French and German via headset.

The cruise fare includes a complimentary shore excursion (usually an island or city tour) in each port. Other outings are priced from around $90, including hikes that range from easy walks to strenuous treks up volcanic craters (running from three to eight hours long).

How was the experience for families?

Hurtigruten does not recommend its West Africa sailings for children under 12. There’s no children’s programming on board, and the “wet landings” MS Spitsbergen makes in the Bissagos Islands (which require tendering from the ship in a Zodiac dinghy, disembarking into waist-deep water, and wading to shore) are unsuitable for little ones. However, teenagers—particularly those with an interest in science, birds or marine animals—may appreciate the adventure.

Where did it sail and how were the excursions? Did anything stand out?

The cruise begins after a day of sightseeing in the Senegalese capital, Dakar. The excursion to Gorée Island, off the coast, is sobering. Between the 15^th and 19^th centuries, more than 20 million Africans were shipped into European slavery from this island trading post, and to tour the warehouses that housed enslaved men, women, and children is essential to understanding the impact of slavery on West Africa and the world.

The cruise then continues to Cape Verde, where it calls at three islands—Santiago, Santo Antão, and Fogo. Excursion options here include island tours and, on Fogo, hiking the crater of its its volcano, Pico de Fogo.

The little-visited Bissagos Islands in Guinea-Bissau are next on the itinerary. However, the particular islands you visit depend on prevailing sea conditions, so the exact details of the excursion (there’s only one, and it’s included in your fare) aren’t known until the day before. Excursions in the Bissagos, via small boats and kayaks, take guests into forests, wetlands, and mangroves, where you may encounter hippos, monitor lizards, and native birds.

The cruise’s final port of call before returning to Dakar is in Gambia’s capital, Banjul. The excursion to the village where Kunta Kinteh (from Alex Haley’s novel, Roots) was born and his ancestors now live is illuminating, as is a visit to the slavery museum, also included in the tour.

[Editor’s note: Because of political unrest in Guinea-Bissau, our sailing skipped the country and was cut short by three days.]

Are there any stand-out sustainability or green initiatives about this cruise?

Under the line’s Green Stay program, Hurtigruten donates 50 cents to the Hurtigruten Foundation per cabin for every day guests choose not to have housekeeping service. Funds from the foundation go toward wildlife preservation efforts, combatting marine waste, and supporting the communities to which the line sails. To participate, simply place the Green Stay hang tag on your door. MS Spitsbergen also produces its own drinking water from seawater, made potable by reverse osmosis, sterilization, and chlorination.

Anything we missed?

For Hurtigruten's large base of European passengers, this itinerary offers the security of cruising with a familiar brand to an unfamiliar region of the world.

Finally, give a sentence or two on why the cruise is worth booking.

Hurtigruten’s West African itineraries are currently one of the only ways international travelers can access these stunning archipelagos, which will fascinate both new and experienced expedition cruisers.