Pushing open the blue and yellow shutter doors, the insistent hum of Ubud’s thick traffic dissipates, replaced with the gentle gurgle of a fountain flowing into a pond. I peer into the water and a gaggle of koi fish rise up to greet me, hopeful for a treat. A familiar musky scent passes over – I trace the source back to a little Hindu offering on the patio; a carefully folded coconut palm leaf basket housing a fluffy cloud of flower petals, finished with an incense stick. I was hopeful for an authentic Balinese place to stay and here, I think I’ve found it.
I’m at the Spirit Villa, a traditional wooden Joglo about 15 minutes’ drive from Ubud’s hectic town centre. There’s no shortage of beautiful Balinese Airbnbs in this part of town but I would be spending this portion of my trip alone, so had no need for a sprawling treehouse or luxury five-bedroom villa. Instead I wanted something small and cosy, central so I didn’t spend my limited sightseeing time in the car, and with interiors that felt classically Balinese – arched roofs, hand-carved designs, and plenty of the colourful brights you see decorating every temple you zip by on the road. I wanted a pool to cool off in, and it had to feel quiet and safe, given I’d be on my own.
This place checks all the boxes. It’s totally bijou, comprising a bedroom, bathroom and an outdoor kitchen and sitting area overlooking the garden and pool. The interiors are cute as can be, with duck egg blues covering the doors, terrace beams, wall panels and window frames twinned with buttercup-bright yellows on the sofa cushions and parasols lining the pool. In the bedroom, hand-carved intricate patterns thread across the tops of the walls before blending into traditional Indonesian curved ceilings featuring a sunburst fan of beams.
Inside, there’s a comfy king-size four poster bed finished with net drapes that function as a mosquito net, and a desk, TV and dresser. Crucially, the air conditioning is good, which was much appreciated come bedtime. I loved the bathroom, which has a natural oasis feel with flagstone floors, a big raw stone sink and a rainfall shower. The roof is designed so that the shower and bath are set under open skies and, when plonked in the massive bathtub, makes a great place to stargaze.
But the outside space is the highlight. Every spare corner is filled with lush vegetation – palm fronds stretch over the pool, huge waxy leaves spill down the banks to the koi pond and follow you out beyond the gates. While not huge, the pool is plenty big enough for a few leisurely laps and the kitchen and outdoor seating areas are underneath the verandah, so there’s no issue if you’re staying in the rainy season.
My days in Ubud were busy and fast-paced, with little down time to relax. But it was lovely to come back after long grubby days scrambling up mountains and weaving through street markets and decompress by the pool before bed. This place would make a great choice for those seeking a secluded romantic break – if I was to return, it would absolutely be with a partner. Massages are available for just IDR 175k (£8.40) and you can pre-order cooked breakfasts, including floating breakfasts in the pool, for the morning.
There aren’t many similarities between my busy house in London and this little hideaway, but I did buy some incense to bring home in homage to the floral offerings that appeared fresh on my patio each morning. The Balinese create them by hand every day to give thanks for the good things in life – I can credit my stay here for a timely reminder to do the same.