Review: Camptown

Why book?
Book if you’re an indecisive city escape artist who wants a ritzy hotel and a peaceful country rental. Just shimmy two-and-a-half hours upstate by car or train along the Hudson River and you’ll find 26 glammed up cabins (plus 24 hotel rooms) at Camptown—a brand new boutique property in a quiet hamlet called Leeds in Catskill, New York. Stay at Camptown when you’re seeking a weekend of antiquing in nearby Hudson, hiking in the Catskills, dining at a destination restaurant feet from your room, and enjoying cozy nights in—with all the benefits of thoughtful hotel service and amenities.

Set the scene
The layout of the property is divided in three: The restored motor lodge which is directly parallel to the road and houses the front desk, lobby, restaurant, and bar; an extension of it which includes 24 hotel rooms; and the sloped, hilly grounds behind these two buildings which are scattered with the cabins. The accommodations have a private feel and run-ins with the staff and other guests are unlikely outside of the restaurant.

Not surprisingly, the crowd I mingled with skewed NYC, although the staff told me that the restaurant, Casa Susanna, has an ultra-local following. In the hotel lobby—which had a crackling fireplace and coworking chairs and tables—and the restaurant, I people-watched and spoke with stylish New York City and ex-New York City types who were from the art, design, and fine dining worlds and in their 30s-60s. I couldn’t help but conclude that the city expats, who seemed so breezy and relaxed with their long, loose dresses and flowy hair, were really doing life right and I questioned all of my own life decisions leading up to that point in time. The hotel is expecting to reach a more varied crowd once word gets out that Camptown is open for business and all of the rooms and cabins are occupied.

Camptown isn't the only property in the area to offer a blend of design and outdoors appeal. Piaule Catskill Hotel, for example, has minimalist, architecturally impressive Scandinavian-style cabins and a strong wellness focus, but Camptown's point of difference is that it has a slightly lower price point, top restaurant, and more of a social scene. 

The backstory
Camptown is a collaboration between developer Mountain Shore Properties and designers Ray Pirkle and Kim Bucci. The friends and co-owners reimagined this original 1930s campsite and motor lodge, winterizing the cabins and creating a property with a strong design identity. The duo has worked this kind of magic before at nearby, influential Rivertown Lodge, a restored run-down motel that helped make Hudson the weekend destination for New Yorkers that it is today. Camptown is the first project single-handedly conceptualized by Pirkle and Bucci’s hospitality and real estate design company, Ramshackle Studio, which employs local craftsmen and artists to repurpose under-utilized spaces. 

The rooms 
I stayed in Cabin 40. I zigzagged up the little dirt trail behind the motel to get there, weaving between the other cabins. It stood out because it was the only one that was painted a sunny yellow; the others were red or brown. The two-bedroom was more cottage than cabin and was perched at the top of the campground on a woodsy slope above gnarled roots and squishy, emerald green moss. In the front, there was a deck with two comfy rocking chairs and views of the hazy, purple Catskill Mountains, and in the back there was a dedicated parking spot. I opened the door, and inside, a basket of juicy pears and a very good bottle of chenin blanc were waiting for me in the spacious, sunny kitchen. The decor was preppy, cozy, and very design-forward, with a midcentury modern slant, plenty of plaids, and a woodburning stove.

There are a range of options when it comes to booking accommodations at Camptown: Cabins, like the one I stayed in, king-size rooms, and smaller scale “nooks,” which start at $209 a night, making them ideal for couples and solo travelers. Cabins start at $229. Amenities vary, depending which you get. Mine had a kitchenette and others had fireplaces.

Food and drink 
Casa Susanna is a total stand-out. The dinner and brunch I had there were two of the best meals I had all year. This restaurant, which serves interior Mexican food highlighting the flavors of Jalisco, has a masa program in which they make all of their own super fresh tortillas from scratch in house. Their wine list is a special focus and emphasizes low-intervention wines, including compelling, hard-to-find wines from Mexico.

For dinner, I started with the tételas de frijol bayo, which was a quesadilla-like starter wrapped in an heirloom blue corn tortilla stuffed with sharp alpine cheese and poblano peppers and plated over creamy salsa verde. Then came the satisfyingly crunchy little gem salad, which was charred on a grill and showered in masa crisps. The main event: duck leg confit with mole negro, crema, and pickled habanero red onions. I washed it all down with a glass of 2021 Catalunya garnacha and finished with a refreshing bowl of prickly pear sorbet. The next morning I had a trio of terrific breakfast tacos—silky scrambled eggs on red corn tortillas slathered in salsa macha—black drip coffee, and a brioche-y concha with cacao crumble. I highly recommend making a reservation if you find yourself in the area, whether or not you're staying at Camptown—Casa Susanna serves dinner Thursdays through Mondays from 5–10 p.m. and brunch Saturdays and Sundays from 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

The neighborhood/area
Located directly on Route 23, Camptown isn’t in a walkable area, and a car is recommended because rideshare services like Uber and Lyft aren’t reliable in Leeds. On site, there’s a communal fire pit; grilling area; picnic table; access to hiking trails with seasonal swimming, fishing, and skiing; and bicycles to borrow for a spin. Gracie’s Luncheonette, much-loved and famous for fresh doughnuts, is just a minute away, and I gorged on a basket of enormous fried shrimp and french fries while I was there.

The service 
The service at Camptown is hands-off but impressively thoughtful and attentive. The staff gives guests a lot of space and lets them do their own thing—which, if you’re looking for the feel of a cabin, is probably what you want—but if needed, they couldn’t be more helpful. A stand-out service at Camptown is a snacks and ingredients pantry. All room keys come with one to access a pantry room that’s in the motel—inside there are two double-door fridges filled with canned cold brew, local prosciutto, beer, wine, soda, pastas and pasta sauces, tortilla chips, hot sauce, and so much more. You fill out a slip of paper denoting what you took—on an honor code system—and it’s charged to your room.

For families 
Given the upscale feel of the restaurant and the sophisticated crowd, Camptown didn’t strike me as particularly family-friendly. Under-twenties did not appear to be the type of traveler this hotel caters to.

Accessibility
Access to the cabins require walking along a narrow dirt path that would be challenging for those who use wheelchairs, although golf carts are available to traverse the campground; the regular hotel rooms did have a wide, smooth paved ramp for entry.  

Anything left to mention?
A pool area with an outdoor bar is under construction and planned to open Memorial Day weekend for the summer season, and a sauna is scheduled to open in the fall.